As the trout season is wrapping up for some, there are a few good buys on fly rods from retailers. After having discussions with fishing buds, I thought I’d lay down my angle on high-end rods, why I like them, and why there is nothing wrong with some less expensive rods.
The performance spectrum of today’s graphite fly rods is much narrower than the price range. You can spend anywhere from $70 to $700. Although a dream to cast, to most folks the $700 rod isn’t 10 times better than the $70 rod. Some of today’s cheaper, imported graphite rods are better than the top-of-the-line rods 15 to 20 years ago.
One benefit of today’s high-end rod is warranty, and knowing the company will be around when your rod breaks. The lofty price of the rod is partly for insurance. With high-end rods, you’re getting great components and workmanship. My $79 Powell Advantage 8wt. has been a nice steelhead backup rod. But after a couple years, the glue seal on the handle cracked and allowed water to get in, causing the cork to warp and pull away from the rod. It’s still functional, but in this case I got what I paid for.
As far as casting, the high-end rod does not necessarily make the caster better or provide more distance. Accuracy and drift are more important than distance in trout fishing. Depending on the action, a cheaper rod can do just as well as a high-end rod. It greatly depends on the casting style of the individual.
I choose my rods based upon my own casting style. Cheaper rods are generally slower, and I like a more progressive taper…something that is a result of better design and materials engineering. That cost is passed on to the angler. I want a smooth yet responsive rod, and one I can cast all day with ease. My favorites: the Sage SLT for small dries and Loomis GLX (Classic) for breezy conditions and bigger dries. I like to nymph with the moderately priced Sage FLi. The Sage XP is too fast, all tip flex, and requires too much work to cast.
At one time, a more expensive rod meant you were getting a lighter rod. That gap has narrowed though. The perceived weight of the rod (which will vary with fly line selection) is more important. Test drive whatever rod you want to buy with the line you think you’ll be using on that rod. A Scientific Anglers GPX WF4F is a long-belly line actually sized up a half weight higher. This line will load far differently than an Orvis Wonderline DT4F. But then if you’re even considering using a DT line, you already know this.
Ultra cheap rods like the Cabela’s Three Forks are a waste of $40. I bought a 3wt. for my son and it’s like casting a spinning rod with fly line. It has hardly any tip flex. The stiff, parabolic action sucks entirely, even when lined up with WF4.
Put an indicator and split shot on a high-end rod and you largely take away the rod’s advantage. Soft, cheap rods are fine for lobbing nymph rigs. So are inexpensive faster rods like the Temple Fork Outfitters TiCr. In fact, you almost need the additional lead weight on your line to cast the TiCr with less than 50 feet of line.
So while I think they’re great for backups, inexpensive rods are not my go-to tools. For kids and beginners, choose a softer, inexpensive rod to learn with until the angler develops his or her own casting style and preferences.
To shop locally, stop by the
Idaho Angler and see Tim Mansell or Matt Brower.
There isn't a lot of color during winter, so black and white photos are in order. No matter how mild, winter is always a trying time for big game. This mature mule deer buck, as well as many others, wander nearly into town every year. It's a great time to see wildlife, but letting them rest is a must for their survival.
